Miata Mailing List: July 1999, Message #3203

WOW....  what great responses :-)

I took all the information that was posted, both on the list and personal
and have combined it into one document. I did modify it to be a little more
generic, but the basic text is the same.   The next person that is
interested in doing this for the first time should be able to follow these
directions easily. They are informative and witty.  Changing the oil will be
a snap.  A bit messy maybe, but a snap. <grin>  My gratitude goes to
everyone that contributed to my Miata do-it-yourself education.


Change your oil every 3000 miles for natural, 7500 for synthetic.
Recommended brands: Valvoline, Pennzoil or Castrol GTX.
NOT recommended brands: Quaker State.
Remember, higher numbers for higher temperatures, lower for lower.


You need:
 - 19 mm wrench (You won't need a ratchet if you have the 19MM combination
wrench.)
 - 4 litres(quarts) of 10W-30 oil or 10W-40 everywhere except in the deep
south.  Four quarts will have a tad left over when you change oil and
filter.
 - Mazda oil filter (You can get the oil filter from Performance Buyers Club
or Roebuck Mazda.  They'd  probably be cheaper than your local dealer.)
 - drain pan
 - funnel

optional:
 - kitty litter
 - cardboard
 - a good light
 - new washer for the drain plug (Not necessarily needed every time, you can
reuse it. Recommendations are no more than twice.)
 - rubber dishwashing gloves

1.  Get the oil warm.  It doesn't have to be at full operating temperature.
That's actually a little painful :) If you can't touch the engine,
you won't want to touch the oil (it is likely going to run down your hand,
wrist, arm and end up in your armpit.)

2.  Get the front of the car high enough that you can slide a 4 litre
container underneath.  On some Miatas, that's pretty simple.  On others,
it's a serious challenge :)  Ramps work well - you'll feel better if you
have someone to spot for you. If you know how to slip a clutch (drive a
stick) just inch your way up, hanging out the drivers door and looking at
the front wheel.  I use a jack and jack stands.  You could also simply use
the Miata jack to raise each front wheel and put a couple of bricks
underneath - that should be high enough to get your drain pan under a stock
car.  Make sure there's no way that car will roll or slip off whatever is
holding the front up.  I like to put a big sheet of cardboard (i.e., a
flattened box) under the car to catch the drips.

3.  When you look under the car, you'll see a big flat plate of plastic at
the front. Behind that, in the center of the car, is a ribbed plate made of
aluminum.  That's your oil pan, and it should be warm to the touch if you
followed step 1.  There's a big bolt sticking out of the edge on the
passenger's side.  There's your drain plug.  It is the only 19MM bolt on the
bottom of the engine. Still not sure?  Then follow the dipstick tube to the
oil pan.. then look for a 19mm plug in the pan.

4.  After you break the drain plug loose with your 19 MM wrench, undo the
drain bolt. Begin unscrewing it with your hand.   (Remember 'righty tighty'
and 'lefty loosey').  It should turn without resistance unless someone
before you stripped it.  Use your index finger to keep the plug pushed up
against the drain pan while you unscrew it with your thumb and middle
finger.

Once it is fully unscrewed, quickly move your hand AND THE PLUG out of the
way and let the oil stream into the pan. Watch out!  When this comes out,
the oil will follow.  It won't just oooze straight down, either.  It will
arc out to the side.  And it's hot.  Ow ow ow.  Try to aim the drain pan so
that it catches the arc. The key is to not drop the plug into the pan -
unless you like to stick your hand in 4 quarts of warm oil and fish for it.

5.  Open the hood and undo the filler cap.  Oil will continue to pee out of
the drain pan for a couple of minutes.  The longer the better.

6.  Remove the filter.  This can be a real pain in the @$$, depending on who
put it on last, and it's the most likely step to give you problems. It's
hidden down at the side of the engine, on the passenger's side.  Look under
the intake plenum (the big cast aluminum "pipe" beside the top of the
engine), and you should spot the filter.  It will be the same shape as the
one you bought to replace it with, but the colour will depend on who did the
last oil change.  If you can't reach it from above, try turning the wheels
all the way to the left and reaching up through the wheel well.  The
dishwashing gloves will give you a bit of extra grip on the old filter.
When you do get it off, it's going to pee as well.  Turn it so the hole is
at the top as soon as you can, then throw it in the drain pan to empty. They
hold an amazing amount of oil.  Wipe the mess off the side of the engine,
including the pipe the filter attaches to.  Make sure you don't leave any
junk there like lint. Some people knock a hole the in the filter, drain it
into a bowl, then unscrew, in order to contain the mess.

7a (optional) Pre-oil the new filter.  Fill it up with new oil, and let it
absorb into the filter.  Repeat.  This will cut down on clatter, and make
you feel better.  

7.  Put a bit of fresh clean oil on the rubber ring around the edge of the
filter, and screw it in to the side of the engine.  Hand tight is fine.
Those gloves will come in handy again.

8.  Put an (optional) new washer on the drain plug, and screw it back in.
Torque is - tight, but don't bust yourself.  You don't want it coming loose,
but you're also not trying to set a world record. Get it snug, but DON'T
strip it.

9.  Pour 3 litres of oil into the fill hole at the top.  Don't do this until
you've replaced the drain plug! :)  Check the dipstick.  Now keep
pouring and checking until you've got the right amount in place.  You've
probably figured out where the funnel comes in to play here.  Put the filler
cap back on when you're done.  Seems obvious, but....

10.  Clean up.  Put kitty litter on any spills, and pour your old oil into a
container that's labeled.  Pour it in old bleach bottles, or something
similar, take it to wherever you bought the oil, and tell them you wanna
recycle it.  It doesn't cost you anything.

11.  Go for a drive.  Check the oil later to make sure the level is right.

NOTE: Don't forget to 'scratch and spit' to get the full testosterone
dosage. Cursing out loud is tacky, precussing under your breath is allowed.
(These directions apply to females, most males already know to do this.)
<grin>

Acknowledgements go to Keith Tanner, Tom Blough, Jerry Reuter, Steve Long,
Berck Nash and a cast of thousands!

Pamela Dopp
'95 Red (Munchkin)
License REDMX5
#18058 of 6th Prod. Yr.
Team "pimpenest car in the whole wide world"
Zion, IL
Windy City Miata Club